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Preface

1. Tools
2. Tools #2
3. Fresh-Water Plugs
4. Fresh-Water Plugs #2
5. Fresh-Water Spin Bugs
6. Fresh-Water Spin Bugs #2
7. Salt-Water Plugs
8. Salt-Water Plugs #2
9. Spoons
10. Spinners
11. Spinners #2
12. Jigs
13. Jigs #2
14. Metal Squids
15. Metal Squids #2
16. Eel + Eelskin Lures
17. Other Lures
18. Sinkers
19. Leaders + Connections
20. Care + Repair

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Chapter 14
Metal Squids


M
etal squids are used by many salt-water fishermen and are especially popular for surf fishing. They can also be used for casting or trolling from a boat in salt water. Metal squids come in various sizes and weights, and in general look somewhat like a small boat with a V-shaped keel. Long and narrow squids are called sand-eel squids because they resemble this salt­water baitfish. Others are shorter and a bit broader, and simulate various baitfish such as spearing or silversides and other salt-water minnows. Still other metal squids are broad and deep and resemble mullet, menhaden, herring, and other deep-bodied baitfish.

You'll find plenty of metal squids for sale in the fishing tackle stores near the ocean, especially along the Atlantic Coast. You can buy one of these and make a mold of it. All you have to do, beforehand, is file off the hook and fill the hole where the line is attached with clay or wax or some other substance.

But quite a few anglers like to design their own metal squids and this can be done by carving a pattern from soft wood, plastic wax, or some similar substance. I've used balsa wood with great success. This soft wood is very easy to work and the only thing to do after you have finished the pattern is to varnish or shellac it to waterproof it and give it a smooth finish. Some of the basic types of metal squids which you can follow when making your pat­tern are shown in Fig. 98. The methods used in casting metal squids are quite similar to those described in the previous chapter on making jigs. There are some differences, however, so we will describe the procedure step by step.

After you have your pattern to be copied, get a small cardboard box or make one out of wood or cardboard. It should be about 5 or 6 in. long, 2 in. wide and 11/4in. deep, but can be bigger or smaller depending on the size of the squid to be made. You'll find that the long and narrow cardboard boxes which are used to hold fishing plugs are ideal for this, but if you can't find the right type of box make a wood frame and anchor this to a plate of glass or flat piece of metal. Scotch tape and modeling clay can be used to hold the box sides together and to hold them on the base. This box or frame should be long enough and wide enough to clear the pattern or metal squid to be copied.

The next step is to coat the inside of the box or frame and the base with petroleum jelly. Then do the same thing with the pattern, leaving a thin coat of the grease so that the plaster won't stick to it.  Now place the metal squid or pattern to be copied inside the box or frame with the flat part down and the keel up. Make certain that the tail end of the squid (where the hook was or will be) is only about 1/4in. away from one end of the box or frame. See Fig. 99.

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To make a temporary mold, use any of the materials such as plaster of Paris, water putty, or crack filler mentioned in the previous chapter on jigs. Mix the plaster or water putty with water and feel around with your hands to break up any lumps. This is important, or else the cast will be imperfect. Now pour the plaster into the box or frame until it covers the metal squid or pattern by at least 3A in.  If the box is only about an inch or slightly more

in depth, fill it with plaster up to the top. After pouring the plaster wait about an hour before breaking the box or frame apart. Turn the plaster cast over and remove the metal squid or pattern. This is best done with a sharp, pointed knife and prying under the pattern at the head to loosen it from the plaster. You may have to cut all around the pattern with the knife if the plaster covered the pattern to any extent. It will now take about a week or a bit longer for the plaster mold to season and dry before it can be used.

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Metal squid pattern ready to be cast.Figure 99.

In the meantime, you can make a cover for the mold. This can be done by pouring another part in a box, with plaster or water putty, to make a flat, thick cover. You'll get somewhat better results, however, if you use a metal plate almost as wide and long as the plaster cast for a cover. It can be made of brass, copper, or other metal and be from Vs to V* in. thick.

After the plaster mold is thoroughly dry, carve both a pouring hole at the head and a slot for the hook at the rear. Now take the metal plate which will be used as a cover and file a small triangular notch at one end which will fit around the hook. See Fig. 100 for an illustration of the finished plas­ter mold and metal plate cover.

Next you need some 6/0, 7/0, or 8/0 O'Shaughnessy hooks, depending on the size of the squid in your mold. For small squids the 6/0 or even 5/0 hooks can be used, while the larger ones will take the 7/0 or 8/0 hook. When cutting the slot in the plaster mold, make sure you use the correct size hook as a sample.  It must fit snugly into this slot.  See Fig. 101.

You will also need a fairly large C-clamp to hold the metal cover against the plaster mold while pouring. And it's a good idea to make a small wooden base where the mold will rest while you are setting it up and after you fin­ish pouring the molten metal into it. This wooden base and the plaster mold all ready for pouring are shown in Fig. 102.

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Figure 100. Finished plaster mold and its metal cover.

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Hook Jilted into slot of mold.Figure 101.

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