One of the deadliest lures used in salt-water fishing is the jig. It is also becoming more and more popular in fresh-water fishing. This lure, which consists of a metal "head" in which a single hook is embedded also has a "body" or "skirt" of bucktail hair, feathers, nylon, plastic, or other material. The entire combination makes a small, compact lure heavy enough to cast well. Whether cast or trolled or jigged up and down near the bottom it is very attractive to almost every fish that swims. In fact, if I had to choose but a single artificial lure for salt-water fishing I'd not hesitate an instant to pick an assortment of jigs. It is also highly effective for fresh-water fishing. Ob­viously, the fresh- or salt-water angler who wants to catch fish should carry an assortment of jigs in his tackle box or bag.

For best results, you need a wide variety of jigs in different sizes, colors, materials, and weights. You also need many replacements for those jigs which are lost when they get caught on the bottom or are broken off by a fish. So you can save quite a bit of money and have a lot of fun making your own jigs. They are very easy once you know how, and I am surprised more fresh- and salt-water anglers don't mold their own jigs.

To make the jigs you need some kind of mold. A simple and inexpensive temporary mold can be made from several kinds of materials, the cheapest and most popular being plaster of Paris. This white powder can be bought in any paint or hardware store and is mixed with water. A 5- or 10-pound bag of the stuff costs very little and will make several molds.

Somewhat similar but a bit more expensive are "water putty" and "crack filler" which also come in powder form in containers and are mixed with water. Most hardware or paint stores carry them. Another material which can be used is "iron paste" or "iron cement," which comes in powdered form too. You also add water and this makes a heavy paste for pouring the mold. Most hardware stores carry it.

There are also many kinds of dental cements and plasters which can be used to make temporary molds. Ask your dentist to suggest one or two of these.  Or you can go to a dental supply house and ask for such a cement.

The first step in making a jig mold is to obtain a pattern which can be copied. For this you can buy a finished jig in a tackle store. Then remove the hair or feather dressing and file off the hook close to the jig head.

Basic jig head shapes.Figure 85.

You can also fashion your own jig by using a soft wood to carve out a pattern.  In fact, almost any wood can be used to carve out a pattern, but the softer woods are easier to work with. Other substances suitable for mak­ing patterns are plastic, wax, soap and modeling clay. If you use wood for a pattern, sandpaper it smooth when finished and then varnish or shellac it to waterproof it. Fig. 85 shows some basic jig heads which can be followed when making a pattern.

After you have the jig pattern you are ready to make the mold. For this you need a small container such as a cardboard box approximately 3 in. long, 2 in. wide and about Wi in. deep. If you can't obtain such a small box you can make one, using heavy cardboard or thin sections of wood. Cut out the four sides to form a box and place them on a flat surface such as metal or glass. Then anchor the box in place using scotch tape at the cor­ners and sides. Modeling clay can also be used to hold the box sides to the metal or glass base.  See Fig. 86.

The next step is to coat the inside of the box and the jig pattern itself with petroleum jelly to prevent the plaster from sticking. A thin coat is all that is necessary. Now mix some of the plaster of Paris or water putty in a container with water. You can do this with a stick but your hands are much better for breaking up any lumps. Keep adding water and plaster until you get a heavy consistency—one which still pours freely, however. And be sur,e you make enough to fill the box half full.

Now pour this plaster into the small box until it is half full. Then sink your jig pattern halfway into the wet plaster. You should allow a space of about 3/8in. between the rear end of the jig and the box side and 1 1/2in. from the opposite end of the box side to the jig.  See Fig. 87.

Next, sink two flat-headed nails into the wet plaster, allowing about 1/4 in. of the pointed ends to project. They can be placed diagonally opposite near the corners. They will act as locating pins when using the two mold halves when casting.  See Fig. 88.

You now have half the mold completed and must wait until the plaster sets before you pour the other half. When it hardens (usually in about an hour), coat the entire surface and inside of the box with petroleum jelly or a heavy oil. After this, mix more plaster of Paris or whatever substance you are using to make the mold. Then fill the box to the top with this mixture.

After this second pouring of plaster sets, in an hour or so, you break apart the box holding the cast. Then separate the two halves of the mold with a knife blade, as shown in Fig. 89. This must be done with care in order not to break off any section of the plaster mold. You'll notice a line indicating where the two halves meet and by slowly working a knife blade between them at several points you can usually separate them with no trouble. The original pattern will be found adhering to one of the halves, and this must be worked loose very carefully. You will then have two damp plaster halves as shown in Fig. 90. Set them aside to dry and season for about two weeks.

This is important because if you try to pour hot metal into a damp mold it will spatter all over and will also crack the mold.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...